Humidor

Humidor

Unread post #1 by balarila » Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:32 pm

Warning, this will be a very sloooow build. I plan to do it only when time permits (and time often does not).

I promised my boss that, when he retires, I will make him a humidor. Since he retires end of this year, I think I can leisurely build it over a few months.

I planned to make it have a kamagong finish so I got some kamagong, dimensioned it, then sandwiched it in some mahogany planks. Here it is all glued up with epoxy.
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When the epoxy was dry, did some more planing and sawing to make sure sides are square.
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Then, ran them through my bandsaw. I had just changed the blade and aligned everything. Joy is a well-tuned bandsaw!
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Cut them up and treated the mahogany side with Potassium Dichromate to make it dark to match the kamagong side.
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Now, you may be thinking: Why did I not use an all-kamagong plank? Why did I go to the trouble of thickening the plank with mahogany, only to slice it afterwards?

The answer is:

These planks will be the sides of the humidor. Since the kamagong I used is highly patterned, I want the grain to flow from one side to the next. By slicing the kamagong, the bookmatch sides can be cut to achieve this effect.

This is how I cut each mirror-plank.
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And this is how it will look when I assemble them into box sides. Note how the grain flows from one side to the other.
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #2 by timber715 » Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:38 pm

Looking good Ding. Been a while since we all made something... Keep it coming brader.
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #3 by Ciecon » Sat Jul 06, 2013 1:12 pm

"Cut them up and treated the mahogany side with Potassium Dichromate to make it dark to match the kamagong side." Sir what is Potassium Dichromate? where can i get this solution? very interesting... :thumbup:
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #4 by VIBRAM75 » Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:00 pm

Ciecon wrote:"Cut them up and treated the mahogany side with Potassium Dichromate to make it dark to match the kamagong side." Sir what is Potassium Dichromate? where can i get this solution? very interesting... :thumbup:




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Re: Humidor

Unread post #5 by balarila » Sat Jul 06, 2013 6:54 pm

Ciecon wrote:"Cut them up and treated the mahogany side with Potassium Dichromate to make it dark to match the kamagong side." Sir what is Potassium Dichromate? where can i get this solution? very interesting... :thumbup:


It's a solid (crystal) chemical that is mixed with distilled water then applied on certain woods (e.g. mahogany) to make it dark. Sort of staining but without masking away the grain.

You can get it only from accredited chemical suppliers. It's toxic and should be handled wit extreme care as it reacts negatively to human skin. Fortunately, I have access to some via suppliers at work. If you want to play with i, I can give you a teaspoon. That should go a long way.
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #6 by Ciecon » Sat Jul 06, 2013 7:35 pm

balarila wrote:
It's a solid (crystal) chemical that is mixed with distilled water then applied on certain woods (e.g. mahogany) to make it dark. Sort of staining but without masking away the grain.

You can get it only from accredited chemical suppliers. It's toxic and should be handled wit extreme care as it reacts negatively to human skin. Fortunately, I have access to some via suppliers at work. If you want to play with i, I can give you a teaspoon. That should go a long way.


Thanks for the info..as you said "it's toxic and should be handled with extreme care". In line with this, it's better leave it to the expert...Again, thank you :thumbup:
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #7 by balarila » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:23 pm

On the corner joints, I initially tried my locking miter bit on the router table. But highly patterened kamagong is very tricky. Twice, because of the curly grain, my planks almost flew away from me. I decided against the router table approach and went for a splined miter joint using the table saw. Much easier.

Finished the bottom so proceeded to glue them.
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Note that I put cellophane tape to mask areas where I don't want the glue to spread/spill into. Epoxy is practically impossible to remove neatly so need to make sure it doesn't spill onto wood. Epoxy does not stick to cellophane.
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Started to cut away the extra splines.
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Here's how it looks so far.
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #8 by Violaine » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:07 am

@ding,
cellophane tape usually leaves its glue residue when removed and becomes a hassle when sanding..better use the blue carpenters tape sold by scotch..

using the lock miter bit is sometimes pain the #%^@...and quite expensive..LOL

continue posting bro.

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Re: Humidor

Unread post #9 by balarila » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:51 am

Thanks, Doc.

I hate cellophane tape, too, precisely because of that leftover sticky goo. Actually had a few rolls of that blue tape you mentioned, bought in an S&R sale a long time ago. Pero nabasa nung umulan so it disintegrated. My concern, then, is that if it is porous, then epoxy may seep through the mask. Will test.

Yes, that lock miter bit is a pain to setup but, once it works, I love the fit. I will never try it on knurly, knotted wood. In fact, I'll try not to use the router on knurly, knotted wood. Too much risk of blowout and flying wood splinters!
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Re: Humidor

Unread post #10 by joey81 » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:11 am

balarila wrote:Thanks, Doc.

Yes, that lock miter bit is a pain to setup but, once it works, I love the fit. I will never try it on knurly, knotted wood. In fact, I'll try not to use the router on knurly, knotted wood. Too much risk of blowout and flying wood splinters!


Try doing it in multiple passes. One pass at full depth is really tricky especially on knotted wood.
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